Tag Archives: Food

Marion County birth return: Stegemeier

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The Genealogy Division of the Indiana State Library has digitized early Marion County, Indiana birth returns. Doctors and midwives filled out the returns and sent them to the Marion County Health Department, which would issue a birth certificate. The dates for these returns range from 1882 to 1907. Recording births wasn’t mandatory at the time, so not every birth is included. This makes the returns that are in this collection even more valuable for research.

These cards enrich our understanding of early Indianapolis families. In many cases, the location of both the child’s and parent’s birth, their names, address, age and father’s occupation are listed. Some cards even ask for aspects of the birth itself, such as whether it was easy or difficult, and a reason. These birth returns give us a glimpse into the lives of early Indianapolis residents and even tell the story of the city itself.

Picture of birth return with the name Stegemeier.As the holiday season – a time filled with food and festivities – is upon us, it’s the perfect opportunity to feature the birth return for the child of a well-known Indianapolis restaurateur. Restaurant owner, Richard Stegemeier married Minnie Schmidt on Nov. 22, 1900. They had their first child, Richard Jr., on Sep. 10, 1901. Later sons, Karl, whose birth return is pictured here, and Henry, as well as daughters, Alma and Marie, were born into the family. According to the birth return pictured above, Karl was born at the Protestant Deaconess Hospital, which once stood on the spot that is now the parking garage on Ohio Street and Senate Avenue across the street from the Indiana State Library.

Screenshot of Indianapolis Baist Atlas Plan.

Indianapolis Baist Atlas Plan # 5, 1908.

Photo of Stegemeier's from newspaper.

Indianapolis Times, March 19, 1931.

Richard Stegemeier was the proprietor of Stegemeier’s Cafeteria, a beloved institution in Indianapolis. Housed at one time in the basement of the Occidental Building – and other locations, including 17 N. Illinois St. and later 114 N. Pennsylvania St. – Stegemeier’s was known for its hearty German fare, beer and as the meeting place of local movers and shakers. The Illinois St. location was in the basement of the Apollo Theater Building, attracting theater-goers to the restaurant before and after the shows.

Newspaper ad for Stegemeier's.

Indianapolis Times, June 29, 1922.

The Stegemeier family likely rubbed elbows with various big shots and stars during its years in operation. Famous Indianapolis residents such as Booth Tarkington, James Whitcomb Riley, Dr. Meredith Nicholson, members of the Vonnegut family and more were known to frequent the restaurant. Author, Kurt Vonnegut, Jr., even wrote about a visit to Stegemeier’s in the prologue of his work, “Jailbird.”

Scan of newspaper article.

Indianapolis Times, Feb. 18, 1951.

Richard Stegemeier immigrated to Indianapolis from Hannover, Germany in 1891 and opened his first restaurant in 1892 with his brother, Henry. Many of those that visited the restaurant remembered it for its substantial meals such as sauerbraten, wiener schnitzel, potato pancakes and bean soup.

On Nov. 25, 1924, an advertisement for the Thanksgiving menu included, “Roast Spring Turkey with Giblet Gravy, Oyster Dressing, Candied Sweet Potatoes and Cranberry Sauce.” Now, over a hundred years later, these items continue to be popular dishes for Thanksgiving dinners around the country.

Scan of ad for Stegemeier's Cafeteria.

Indianapolis News, Nov. 25, 1924.

While most of the food served at Stegemeier’s is still enjoyed today, like chicken and dumplings, beef prime rib, mashed potatoes and apple pie, they also advertised dishes that would make some modern diners’ stomachs churn. Oxtail julienne, boiled ox tongue and calf brains with eggs were all popular enough to be advertised in the April 13, 1911 issue of the Indianapolis Star.

Newspaper ad for Stegemeier's.

Indianapolis Star, Sep. 3, 1921.

Newspaper ad for Stegemeier's Grille.

Indianapolis Times, Feb. 20, 1937.

In 1951, Richard Stegemeier retired and sold the business. Over the next few years, the restaurant changed hands three times. It’s likely none of the new owners had the heart for the business that Stegemeier had for his namesake. In 1953, it was reported that the current owner had plans to eventually drop the Stegemeier name. The restaurant was also undergoing major renovations, which involved the removal of the large, ornate bar which was a trademark of Stegemeier’s. A few years later, after the dust had settled from the renovation, Stegemeier’s restaurant closed for good.

Newspaper picture showing woman outside of Stegemeier's Cafeteria.

Indianapolis News, July 29, 1955.

After his restaurant days were over, the Sep. 21, 1956 Indianapolis Star caught readers up on Stegemeier’s life in retirement.

“RICHARD STEGEMEIER, retired restaurateur, sat at the counter at Merrill’s, downtown, obviously as much interested in the way food is electronically ordered by the waitresses and conveyed from kitchen to counter as in his noonday snack … Mr. Stegemeier is seen daily about the streets, his mounting years resting lightly on his stalwart shoulders, wearing a cane which he does not need and greeting old friends with booming, resonant voice. It wouldn’t be quite so dreary here in winter if this grand, old man didn’t take off – and by bus too – for Florida to add to the already abundant sunshine down there.”

Richard Stegemeier died in 1961, leaving his mark on Indianapolis through memories of good times, great food and the consequential decisions made at his restaurant by the round table of writers, politicians and leaders who dined there.

This blog post is by Dagny Villegas, Genealogy Division librarian, wishing you the happiest of holidays!

Sources:
“Indiana, Marriages, 1780-1992”, , FamilySearch (https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:XF8H-V5V : 13 January 2020), Richard Stegemeier, 1900.

Ancestry.com. U.S., World War II Draft Cards Young Men, 1940-1947 [database on-line]. Lehi, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2011.

“United States, Census, 1910”, FamilySearch, (https://www.familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:MKPB-HPC?lang=enFri Jul 05 19:47:10 UTC 2024), Entry for Detrick Stegemier and Minnie Stegemier, 1910.

“Stegemeier’s: More than an eating place — an institution.” Indianapolis Star, 09/03/1921, p. 23

“Richard Stegemeier, Restaurateur Dies.” Indianapolis Star, 11/27/1961, p. 25

Henn, Carl. “Stegemeier’s – Hoosier Tradition with ‘Old Country’ Touch.” Indianapolis Times, 02/18/1951, p.37

Dreyer, Gerald. “Stegemeier Bar Removal Means ‘Passing of an Era’.” Indianapolis News, 05/06/1953. P. 39

George, Larry. “Landmark Gives Up.” Indianapolis News 07/29/1955, p. 10

Food for thought: Recipes from the Indiana State Library’s federal documents collection – Part I

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When you think of government documents, do hearings, laws, history and maps come to mind?

Cookbook cover featuring salmon dishes. Cookbook cover featuring a radio.Cookbook cover with text.

Did you know that government documents include cookbooks, recipes, meal plans and tips on growing fruits and vegetables in your own garden?

Cookbook cover featuring jars. Cookbook cover featuring pasta and salad. Shopper's Coat publication from the USDA.

Also, did you know that the federal government even had a cooking show broadcasted via radio in the 1930s?

Pamphlet featuring tomato. Pamphlet featuring money saving main dishes. Pamphlet featuring potatoes.

In addition, they even published a document about a shopping coat and where to order patterns to make one of your own!

This blog post was written by Michele Fenton, monographs and federal documents catalog librarian.

Angelina Collins, Indiana’s first cookbook writer

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Born on May 26, 1805, in Petersburg, Virginia, Angelina Maria Lorain – or Lorraine – was raised as a Methodist and instilled with ideas of abolitionism. After marrying James Collins – and taking his name – in 1830, the couple moved to Paoli, Indiana, where they lived for a few years before settling in New Albany in Floyd County.

Painting titled “Mrs. A. Collins, aged thirty-six.”

In 1851, Angelina Collins, with the help of John R. Nunemacher, printer and book seller in New Albany, published her volume of table receipts – known today as recipes – titled “Mrs. Collins’ Table Receipts: Adapted to Western Housewifery.”

In the preface of the book, she explains “…my object has been to simplify the culinary art, and adapt it to every capacity and condition of life, and in preparing the receipts, I have endeavored to select and combine such ingredients as may be easily obtained in any section of our country, but especially have I desired to render them serviceable to the housekeepers of the West.” In other words, “Here’s what you can find at local markets and groceries in late 1840s southern Indiana.” Being on the Ohio River, many of the river towns would have access to a far greater variety of imported goods from the eastern coast, with grocers and merchants being among the first businesses to be established.

Collins ends her preface with “To the ladies of the West, I offer this little volume with full confidence that it will be properly appreciated and well received, and should it in any manner add to their comfort or convenience, I shall be fully compensated for the employment of my leisure home.” And her little volume must have added a large amount of comfort and convenience because in 1857, her cookbook was republished after somehow making its way to A. S. Barnes & Company in New York, where it experienced a name change to the title “The Great Western Cookbook, Or Table Receipts Adapted to Western Housewifery” with the same number of pages. By this time, 1850s southern and middle Indiana would have been well settled, but the upper part still remained as open territory for settlers. These types of publications, such as Mrs. Collins’ cookbook, were meant to encourage immigration to those areas and further west, by showing that there is an abundance of resources.

Here at the Indiana State Library, we have the original 1851 volume and have added it to our digital collections. You can view it here.

Cover of “Mrs. Collins’ Table Receipts: Adapted to Western Housewifery.”

The 1857 version is available online to be researched in Indiana University’s digital collection, “Service through Sponge Cake”. Here is a link to that version.

So, if you love trying our historic recipes, there are 140-plus pages for you to sample. Collins organized her book by topics, including fish, boiling, pickling, pies and fancy dishes to name a few. And of course, no cookbook would be complete with tidbits of information or advice. On page 15, “Observation – In preparing soups, always cut the pieces of meat you send in the tureen small enough to be eaten with introducing a knife and fork into the soup plate.”

Her recipes include corn pone, hominy, “Succotash a la Tecumseh,” mock turtle soup, “California soup,” Mrs. Collins’ batter cake and brain balls. Collins also includes a recipe for mangoes, or in today’s language, stuffed bell peppers. Also included is an interesting recipe for “Indiana sauce.”

Indiana sauce, as featured in “Mrs. Collins’ Table Receipts: Adapted to Western Housewifery.”

Although Angelina Maria Collins died on Sept. 28,1885 in Salem, Indiana, her cookbook is still being researched and used by historians.

Are you interested in historic cookbooks? If so, here are some digital collections of historic cookbooks available from libraries around the country:

This post was written by Christopher Marshall, digital collections coordinator for the Indiana Division at the Indiana State Library.

Watermelon, baked beans and picnics… oh my!

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When I found out that this article would be posted near July 4, I knew I wanted to talk about holidays! So, then began my research into what holidays are in July. The most known American holiday in July, of course, is the Fourth of July! The Fourth of July, also known as Independence Day or July Fourth, became a federal holiday in 1941. Celebrating the Fourth of July dates back to July 2, 1776, when the Continental Congress voted in favor of independence. Two days later, delegates for the 13 colonies adopted the Declaration of Independence, a historic document drafted by Thomas Jefferson. From 1776 to the present day, July 4 has been celebrated as the birth of American independence, with celebrations like parades, cookouts, picnics and fireworks!

Did you know that there are hundreds of daily, weekly and monthly holidays in July? I sure didn’t! The unique national month-long holidays in July that caught my eye are National Baked Beans Month, National Blueberry Month, National Hot Dog Month, National Ice Cream Month, National Picnic Month and National Watermelon Month! When I think about the Fourth of July, all of these things come to mind, but I’m going to talk a little about the history of picnics.

The English word for picnic comes from the French word “pique-nique.” The French word originally referred to a meal where everyone paid for or contributed a share of the food, but it later came to mean a meal eaten outdoors. In England and France picnics became popular in the 18th century among the upper class, but they were held indoors. It was closer to the 19th century when picnics were taken up by the emerging middle class and moved outdoors. The outdoor picnic then made its way to the United States. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that outdoor picnics prevailed over indoor. During that time picnic baskets started being produced for the mass market.

Will you be celebrating the Fourth of July at a picnic eating hot dogs, baked beans and watermelon? I’ll be at my family cookout with this blueberry cake and vanilla ice cream! Happy Fourth of July!

The following recipes are from “Celebrating Indiana Hospitality Picnics, Potlucks & Prizewinners with 4-H Families and Friends” (ISLI 641.5 P597P).

Easy Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream (yield six servings)
1 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
4 cups half and half
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Directions: Combine the condensed milk, half and half and vanilla in the ice cream freezer container and mix well. Freeze according to manufacturer’s instruction.

Berry Batter Cake (yields six servings)
2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries or blackberries, raspberries, or strawberries
¼ cup lemon juice
1 ¾ cups sugar, divided
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon nutmeg (optional)
½ cup milk
¼ teaspoon almond extract
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 cup boiling water

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8 or 9-inch square or 7×11 inch baking dish. Arrange the berries over the bottom of the dish. Drizzle with lemon juice. Combine ¾ cup of the sugar, flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg in a large bowl and mix well. Add the milk, almond extract and vanilla, stirring just until blended. Spread evenly over the berries.

Combine the remaining one cup sugar and cornstarch and mix well. Sprinkle over the batter. Pour boiling water over the top. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden and bubbly. Serve warm with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

This blog post was submitted by Lacey Klemm, Northwest regional coordinator in the Professional Development Office of the Indiana State Library.

Resources
“July 2024 Official, Fun, Crazy and Bizarre Holidays” (brownielocks.com)
“Fourth of July – Origins, Early Celebrations & Traditions” | HISTORY\
“Celebrating Indiana Hospitality Picnics, Potlucks & Prizewinners with 4-H Families and Friends” (ISLI 641.5 P597P)
“The Picnic Book; 100 Outdoor Recipes” by Marian Tracy (ISLM 641.5 T762P)
“The Picnic: a History” by Walter Levy (ISLM GT2955 .L48 2014)

Using food as a cultural touchstone in genealogy

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I have a cookbook that was my grandmother’s. The cookbook, “Food for Two,” was acquired during her engagement to my grandfather. I also have handwritten recipes from another grandmother. These items are among my most treasured family heirlooms.

I have memories of my grandmothers making gingerbread cake, johnny cakes in the pan – fried in lard, beef and homemade noodles. Saturday evenings I watched my great grandmother make communion bread for Sunday’s service.

Though my life is surrounded by living memories of sharing food and life with family, I have also wondered what my ancestors’ lives were like. What their occupations were, what their environments – the places they lived – looked like, what music they listened to and I wondered what did my ancestors eat? All the things that make a life full.

My family has no sheen of the gentry on it and some of them lived in London. My ancestors who lived in London lived near the river Thames, and the river provides. And what does it provide? Eels. Eels from the Thames river. Cooked eels, eel pies and jellied eels.

Like many Midwesterners, I have plenty of Irish heritage, too. I have wondered: What did the Irish eat?

Even though corned beef is often associated with our Irish ancestors, it was not beef they were eating – that was for the wealthy British landowners. Potatoes – also often associated with our Irish ancestors – were brought in to feed the poor, Irish tenant farmers. Of course, when the cheap food source of potatoes failed in Ireland; many Irish migrated to America.

But when families have plenty of food, they use food to show love, celebrate, tell stories and heal.

Family foodways can turn into family businesses and then influence and change the surrounding culture as the Chili Queens of San Antonio did.

Food can be about survival, too. Michael W. Twitty explored his family’s experience of slavery through food.

Sometimes the recipes and the food are a clue in family history, as it was for Cuban-American, Genie Milgrom.

What will your family foodways tell you about your family history?

Books about foodways in the Indiana State Library’s collection to explore:
“Dellinger family : American history and cookbook,” ISLG 929.2 D357M
“Keaton Mills family cemetery, Egeria: an era: family stories and cookbook,” ISLG 929.2 M657MA
“Weesner family favorites: a recollection of old and new recipes,” ISLG 929.2 W3983R
“The cooking gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South Twitty,” Michael W., available as an e-book
“Historical Indiana cookbook,” ISLI 641.5 K72H
“Farm fixin’s: food, fare & folklore from the pioneer village,” ISLI 641.5 F233
“Aspic and old lace: ten decades of cooking, fashion, and social history,” ISLI 641.5 B295
“Pennsylvania Dutch cookbook of fine old recipes: compiled from tried and tested recipes made famous and handed down by the early Dutch settlers in Pennsylvania,” ISLM TX721 .P46 1971
“Quaker cooking and quotes,” ISLI 641.5 B655q
“Cooking from quilt country: hearty recipes from Amish and Mennonite kitchens,” ISLI 641.5 A215C
“The Catholic cookbook; traditional feast and fast day recipes,” ISLM 641.5 K21C
“Consuming passions being an historic inquiry into certain English appetites,” ISLM TX645 .P84 1971
“Rappite cookbook,” ISLO 641.5 no. 29

Online Sources about foodways to explore:
Jellied Eels
What the Irish Ate Before Potatoes
Is Corned Beef Really Irish?
Medieval Cookery
The Sifter A Tool For Food History Research
Historic Cookbooks on line
Generations of Handwritten Mexican Cookbooks Are Now Online
Mexican Cookbook Collection
Recetas: Cooking in the Time of Coronavirus

This blog post is by Angi Porter, Genealogy Division librarian.

Kitchens, Cookery, and a Touch of Scandal

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You might not know it but the General Collection at the Indiana State Library has an incredible collection of books on food and cooking, or cookery in cataloging terms. There are books with recipes from different ethnic groups and geographic areas including Himalayan Mountain Cookery, The Art of Caribbean Cookery, and Rattlesnake Under Glass: a Roundup of Authentic Western Recipes, which contains this actual recipe for rattlesnake, yum!
Fried Rattlesnake
If you are looking for healthy options, we have items such as the 1960 The Low Sodium, Fat-Controlled Cookbook, the 1979 Low Blood Sugar Cookbook, and the 1961 Cooking for Your Heart and Health. The United States Air Force Nutritional Medicine Service put out a book in 1987 called the Fat Controlled, Cholesterol Restricted, Calorie Restricted, Sodium Restricted Diet. I haven’t tried the recipes in this book, but from the title, I think I’d rather have the rattlesnake.

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