When the word “pizza” is mentioned, Indiana doesn’t usually spring to mind. Despite nearby Midwestern states Illinois, Michigan and Missouri having their own pizza identity – tavern style and deep dish crust in Chicago; square Detroit-style crust in Detroit; and cracker thin crust and Provel cheese in St. Louis – Indiana doesn’t have its own signature pizza style. In fact, the two most well-known pizza facts involving Indiana are that disgraced former Papa John’s CEO John Schnatter started the chain in Jeffersonville in 1984, and that two brothers – Wendell and Bob Swartz – helmed the battle of the Pizza Kings in the late ’50s, as detailed in this 2019 Indiana Public Media report.
One little-known fact about Indiana, though, as it relates to pizza, is that the foundation of Pizza Hut has ties to Indiana. Another brother duo – Dan and Frank Carney – famously founded Pizza Hut in Witchita, Kansas while studying at Wichita State University. However, there was a third person involved who actually brought the recipe for the pizza to the business in 1958.
“We found a guy from Indiana that was an airman at McConnell, who lived at the same apartment complex as our sister and brother-in-law, and we talked with him, because we didn’t know how to make pizza,” Frank Carney said in the fall 2008 issue of Wichita State University Alumni Magazine, The Shocker.
That “guy from Indiana” was John Bender of Bloomington. Bender’s pizza making skills most likely developed when he was employed at Cafe Pizzaria in Bloomington. According to a July 25, 2015 Herald-Times article, Cafe Pizzaria “was the first restaurant in Bloomington to specialize in pizza.” Founded in 1953, it may very well be the first restaurant in the state to specialize in pizza.
Prior to the 1950s, pizza wasn’t on the menu for most Americans. A search for the word pizza in Hoosier State Chronicles, Indiana’s Digital Historic Newspaper Program, shows only 13 mentions of pizza between 1940 and 1949. However, between 1950 and 1959 that result jumps to 461. Then, the result explodes to 2,000-plus for each of the next four decades. On Nov. 30, 1957, the Saturday Evening Post published an article titled “Crazy About Pizza.” The article has been reported to the be the impetus that pushed the Carney brothers to pursue pizza after it was mentioned to them by a neighbor who had read the article. Author Richard Gehman begins the piece by saying, “Call it a tomato pie, a pizza pie or just plain pizza – this delectable, pungent Italian concoction is giving the hot dog a run for the money as the favorite American snack!” Undoubtedly, the ’50s was the decade when pizza went from a fad to a staple.
With pizza established as a popular new dinner item in the ’50s, those selling the pies had to advertise. A great way to advertise was via phone book, a book delivered at no cost to nearly every household in a given town, city or county and conveniently listing phone numbers of local businesses. Prior to Cafe Pizzaria establishing itself as a business focusing mainly on pizza in 1953, another Bloomington restaurant was serving pizza in 1951. In that year’s telephone directory, Joe Natalie’s Italian Village placed an ad featuring a stereotypical Italian chef, who would become a pizza advertisement standard. While pizza was listed first in the ad, the name of the restaurant was still a general reference to Italian food.
Joe Natalie’s Italian Village; Bloomington; Bloomington Telephone Directory, 1951, page 80. Indiana State Library Digital Collections.
By 1956, pizza was getting top billing in the names of many restaurants serving Italian food. Elkhart’s Papa’s Pizzaeria & Spaghetti House lists pizza first in their name, giving it top billing over spaghetti and opting to eschew the word Italian in its moniker. Pizza is also listed first in the food hierarchy over spaghetti, sandwiches and raviola. It’s unclear whether this was a misspelling of ravioli or a reference to the Italian pastry.
Papa’s Pizzaeria & Spaghetti House; Elkhart; Elkhart Telephone Directory; 1956; page 148. Indiana State Library Digital Collections.
Moving into the 1960s, phone book ads started becoming a bit more stylized and telephone exchange names began to be phased out. A 1960 ad from Homer’s Pizza in Terre Haute features a picture of a pizza, 3D lettering, steaming pies and the good ‘ol Italian chef, although his moustache is a little thin here.
Homer’s Pizza; Terre Haute; Terre Haute Telephone Directory, General Telephone Company of Indiana; 1960; page 108. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
While Bunky’s Carry Out Pizza in Connersville had an updated phone number with a prefix, the restaurant’s 1963 phone book ad has nearly identical elements to the Homer’s Pizza ad from three years prior, right down the the “chef’s kiss” gesture. In a collective effort to stand out, a lot of pizza parlors’ advertising became derivative at this time. One business that actually did stand out in this era, however, was Michigan-based Little Caesars. One year prior, in 1962, they introduced perhaps the most famous pizza mascot of all time, Little Caesar. He was – and still is – the face of the Little Caesars pizza chain.
Bunky’s Carry out Pizza, Connersville; Connersville Telephone Directory; 1963; page 72. Indiana State Library Digital Collections.
By the 1970s, phone book pizza ads really started to ramp up. This aggressive 1973 ad from Deb’s Pizza in Indianapolis features a tricked out car and boasts “Fast Free Delivery.” While the vehicle doesn’t seem very efficient for pizza delivery, the ad definitely gets its message across. A 2011 obituary in the Indianapolis Star states that Omar Rooks owned and operated Deb’s Pizza for 15 years and lists his hobbies as “restoring vintage cars and watching NASCAR races,” so it’s no surprise that he chose this design for the ad.
Deb’s Pizza; Indianapolis; Indiana Bell’s Yellow Pages; 1973; page 676. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
Another well known pizza mascot emerged in the ’80s, the Noid. The gremlin in a skintight rubber suit was created by Michigan advertising company Group 243 for Domino’s Pizza. According to Ernie Perich, executive vice president creative director on the campaign, the Noid was “The personification of all things that can go wrong.” While the ’80s were full of colorful and outrageous mascots – from the California Raisins to Spuds MacKenzie – Saylor’s Pizza of Fort Wayne opted to go with a fairly simple sailor mascot, a play on the restaurant’s family name. The Saylor family’s pizza businesses date back to the ’60s in Chicago. The Fort Wayne locations were operated by Walter Saylor.
Saylor’s Pizza; Fort Wayne; GTE’s Fifty Years of Telecommunications directory; 1982; page 343. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
In the early ’50s, pizza was merely a mention in a phone book ad of an Italian restaurant. By the ’90s, though, pizza was so popular that it had its own category in the Yellow Pages and often took up several pages. The 1993 issue of Indiana Bell’s Ameritech PagesPlus for Columbus/Seymour illustrates how popular pizza really was at the end of the century. Yes, the Italian chef and his mustache are back.
Columbus/Seymour; Indiana Bell’s Ameritech PagesPlus directory; 1993; page 152. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
In the the new millennium, pizza remained as popular as ever. Founded in the ’50s, Pizza King was still alive and well in 2001. They were also using a lot more colored ink in their phone book advertising while letting the reader know that they were “not only the best pizza in town,” but that they were also “unmatched” and a “pioneer.” This ad is as aggressive as a revving muscle car.
Sorrento’s Pizza King; West Lafayette; Verizon SuperPages directory; 2001; page 270. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
During the 2000s, pizza places, like J&J’s Pizza Shack of Northwest Indiana, opted to keep their ads simple. While the ad is unassuming, the 45-piece 18″ x 26″ party size pizza is rather grand. In 2024, the party size meat pizza will set one back $75.00. Owners John and Linda Bogdan retired in 2000, leaving each of their children to run their own J&J’s Pizza Shack with their families in Lake Station, Portage, Hobart, Valparaiso and Demotte.
J&J’s Pizza Shack; Portage/Valparaiso, Verizon Yellow Pages directory; 2006; page 276. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
In modern times, telephone directories aren’t as essential as they once were since everyone can look up contact numbers right on their phones. While times were changing in 2013, Third Generation of Chesterfield was throwing it back to the ’50s with another portrayal of the Italian chef.
Third Generation; Anderson; AT&T’s The Real Yellow Pages directory; 2013; page 154. Indiana State Library Phone Book Collection.
While some pizzerias – like Pizza King and J&J’s Pizza Shack – have survived over the decades, many – like Deb’s Pizza and Third Generation – are long gone, just like the phone books themselves. Just a few weeks ago, Cafe Pizzaria, a pillar of Indiana pizza, made the announcement on their Facebook page that they were closing “effective immediately” after 70 years of serving Bloomington. While Indiana doesn’t rank high on the list of places associated with pizza, it does have its own unique history and contributions to the business. One thing is for certain, though: one cannot cook pizza without a moustache.
This blog post was submitted by John Wekluk, communications director.